1853 Jacob and Michael Ardner American (Mount Vernon, Ohio) Wool and cotton; jacquard weave, medallions with border of birds Gift of Sally Mcadoo through the Decorative Arts Trust No description available.
YOUNG BOY'S WAISTCOAT
ca. 1720 English Linen with silk embroidered appliqués Gift of the Decorative Arts Trust
In the early 18th century, one of the principal influences upon design in England continued to be the Far East. It had affected nearly every branch of craftsmanship in the country since the mid-17th century, when commercial trade with the East increased. The vogue for oriental wares, chinoiserie, was reflected in the many fabric patterns that decorated household furnishings as well as personal dress. Embroidered goods incoproated many Anglicized Indian and Chinese motifs, such as pagodas, bridges, dragons, or, more commonly, the exotic flowers, birds, and butterflies that adorn this small child's waistcoat.
While the waistcoat is made of simple linen, its front is covered in a whimsical design composed of embroidered appliqués placed in a symmetrical pattern. Each motif--rendered in vibrant hues of yellow green, bright pink, rich blue, or mustard yellow--contains several rows of graduated color that replicates shading on the leaves, petals, and feathers, and provides a lively contrast. Worked in a chain stitch with French knot accents, these appliqués were produced with fine silk thread on a separate piece of linen, cut to shape, and then sewn onto the coat. This practice was less time consuming than embroidering directly on the ground fabric, as more than one worker could assist in the production of a garment. In professional shops, this technique helped keep production costs down. Another advantage was that appliqués could be removed easily and later reapplied to another ground fabric.
LAZY GAL VARIATION
2003 Loretta Pettway, 1942 American (Gee's Bend, Alabama) Cotton and denim Partial gift of the Tinwood Alliance and Loretta Pettway; Memphis Brooks Museum of Art Purchase with funds provided by Decorative Arts Trust, Memphis Cotton Patchers, and John and Tina McWhorter No description available.